The State of the Recipe Union

Judy Roger's The Zuni Cafe Cookbook came out when I was about 16, and it couldn't have come at a better time in the evolution of my relationship with recipes. I had recently begun to use cookbooks and recipes for inspiration and guidance rather than explicit directions, and Zuni, which I read cover-to-cover twice, empowered me to look at the title, basic ingredients and picture of almost any recipe and to let my senses guide me from there. Rogers wrote chapters devoted to braising and butchering, odes to vinaigrettes, extensive discussions of frittos and page upon page describing the virtues of each oyster varietal. I also pursue the spirit of her "cuisine genereuse," cook pan-Mediterranean food, and am guided by a uniquely San Francico palate. Her book spoke to me, and her voice still often guides me. It is possibly my Joy of Cooking.

Alice Waters recently came out with a book with a similar structure in that it organizes and prefaces simple recipes with long descriptions of basic techniques. Unlike Zuni, The Art of Simple Food does not presume that its readers are passionate foodies. It is more basic and approachable, and less local in its appeal. I see it as having the potential to be found in far more kitchens than Zuni. It is advising its readers how to assemble their culinary tool boxes, in everything from the knife selection, pantry staples and a canon of basic sauces.

Unfortunately, I do not have Zuni in my dorm room. I do, however, have Simple Food and a French Laundry recipe for lemon-curd based desserts. Alice Water's recipe for lemon curd is very sparce, but it does follow a description of fruit curdery. I have added my comments as to where I think more specifics would result in a better curd, because I'm sorry, cutting corners with egg-based desserts is a recipe for disaster. I can't tell if she's leaving out important instructions because she thinks people know what to do or because she thinks they don't wat to be bothered. She suggests that it be used in tart shells, the recipe for which she offer elsewhere in the book (under "Tarts, Sweet and Savory"... this appears under "Custards"). I have not tried this recipe, but I imagine it is lovely (though at first glance I find it a bit eggy... I like Tartine's recipe, which calls for a pound of butter to be whisked in at the end, and in which I only uses Meyer lemons from my garden). 

The French Laundry recipe is as poetic and as anal in its execution as the man behind it is. Lemon Sabayon-Pine Nut Tart with Honeyed-Mascarpone Cream, is apparently inspired by a cup of tea with honey and lemon. Sabayon sounds much sexier than the Anglically turdish "curd," doesn't it? I have made this recipe several times, often in tartlet rather than tart form. The broiling of the tart is a pitiful attempt at allowing home cooks to brulee the tarts. I didn't like the result. I say buy a torch or just serve as is. The lemon, honey, pine nut is lovely.

Lemon Curd

Makes 2 cups

Wash and dry:

4 lemons

Grate the zest of one of the lemons on the small holes of a grater (preferably a microplane). Juice the lemons (strain the juice); there should be about 1/2 cup juice.

Beat until just mixed:

2 eggs

3 egg yolks

2 tablespoons milk

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt (omit if using salted butter) (ummm... salted butter varies greatly in saltiness)

Stir in the lemon juice and zest and add:

6 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

Cook the mixture on a small nonreactive heavy saucepan, stirring constantly (with a whisk), over medium heat until it is thick enough to coat a spoon (what is that?). Do not boil or the eggs will curdle. When thick, pour (through a strainer!!!) into a bowl or glass jars to cool. Cover (so as not to form a skin) and refrigerate.

Here is a link to the French Laundry Recipe:

http://www.frenchlaundry.com/tfl/lemontart.pdf